Visiting Guavirami/Guarani Community in Paraguay (from Encarnacion) Part 2

At the Guavirami community of Paraguay

One of the highlights of my trip in Paraguay, and the reason that attracted me there in the first place, was a visit to a Guarani community. The Guaranis are the indigenous people of Paraguay that inhabit these regions since the pre-Columbian era. As with many other tribal nations, they too were persecuted by the Western European conquistadors that were coming to South America in hope of finding gold, and to establish New Spain back in the 16^th century. The Guarani people are famous for their exquisite music, in the same way as the indigenous of the Andes are. The Andeans, in their music compositions, were affected by the high mountains and the strong element of air, whereas the Guaranis were inspired by their environment – the jungles and rivers. Their music exhibits something very special, a type of a high melody that can trigger some wonderful responses in a human body. Obviously they inherited this music knowledge from their ancestors, and I was very keen to find out more about it and their culture overall.

The community I was to visit is called the Guavirami community, located not far from the city of Encarnacion (for those of you who are interested to visit it, call Castorina at 0975 543946 and announce your coming). I took a bus that went along the ‘Ruta 6’, and right before the toll booth I went off and turned left, onto the path that went across the field, and was eager to walk the necessary 5 kilometers in order to arrive to my destination. Occasional villagers on motorcycles passed by me, so I tried and hitchhike, which worked very well – a friendly chap stopped by and dropped me off at the junction where I needed to turn right in order to reach the Guavirami community.

Daytrip to the Ancient Incan Sites of Moray and Pisac (from Cusco, Peru)

The Incan ruins of Moray

On my last day in Cusco I planned out to visit the remaining of what I thought are the most interesting Incan sites in the Sacred Valley. The latter is probably one of the most interesting area in South America when it comes to archaeology and wonderful ancient sites, and I felt glad that by now I have seen majority of the most interesting ones. What remained was a visit to the ruins of Moray and Pisaq.

I was still uplifted by the previous day visit to the sites of Tipon and Pikkilacta, and have wondered what awaits me today. Getting to Moray from Cusco by public transport was pretty easy. From Pavitos street in Cusco I took a colectivo van (6 soles) that goes towards Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, and have gotten off about 50 kilometers northwest from Cusco, at a town of Moray. At the intersection where the colectivo dropped me off, there were taxis waiting for people who want to go to the ancient site. An enthusiastic couple from Argentina was already there, negotiating with one of the taxi drivers. It is about 20 minute ride to reach Moray ruins, which costs 20 soles if it is only one person, but if more than one then it is 15 soles each. This includes going there, staying for one hour, and then returning to the intersection. The ride offered picturesque Andean scenery, and adventurous roads that entailed horning every time the road abruptly turned and we couldn’t see if someone is coming from the opposite direction.

Adventure to Machu Picchu, Peru

At the viewpoint of Machu Picchu

I woke up relatively early in the morning, but later than I originally planned for. It was around 8am when I started the hike from Agua Calientes to Machu Picchu. The town was still very quiet, and a cloud engulfed everything. As I walked out of the town and towards the mountain path, I saw a large group of people waiting for the bus to Machu Picchu. Eventually they all embarked, and the bus passed by me, as I walked on the same gravel road. Soon afterwards I crossed the Vilkanuta river and started climbing up the mountain. Not long after I started ascending, I was feeling the place in a particular way. And on top of this, I was very conscious of seemingly everything that was happening within me. My inner state was aligned to nature around me, and it seemed as though with every step I am more and more prepared for what I will experience at the ancient sacred site.

It was a hike that lasted for an hour and a half, and it seemed to me as the energy of that path is such that it influences everyone who step on it, opening up hidden perceptions so that a pilgrim is better able to understand and appreciate what will come up at the top of the mountain. Subtropical vegetation only enhanced the heightened awareness, and the dancing clouds were unveiling and then veiling again other parts of the mountain, evoking even more the sense of mystery and wonder. I only saw a few other people on the path. Eventually I started hearing a murmur of the crowds, which signaled that I am almost there.. After showing my admission ticket, I was on my way to the ancient site.

From Cusco to Ollantaytambo – A Story of Peace and Mystery

Ollantaytambo from the temple of the Sun.

It was around the end of February when Romano, my Peruvian friend, escorted me to a Pavitos street, from where I had to take a colectivo van from Cusco to Ollantaytambo (10 soles). It took us about two hours to reach our destination, driving through a beautiful landscape of the Sacred Valley, surrounded by the majestic Andean mountains.

In Ollantaytambo I arranged accommodation through Couchsurfng, where I stayed in a home of Ethan. We were to meet on the main square, and he was already there waiting for me. Ethan was a very interesting fellow, a type that has wisdom and one whom one would visit again just to soak in some of the genuinely wise words that he has. Fascinated by the Incan culture, he came to Ollantaytambo from the U.S. many years ago. I am quite certain that he picked one of the best places to stay, when it comes to richness of the Incan treasures.

We went to his house, which was on the outskirt of the town. As I entered the courtyard, I was pleasantly surprised by the wave of tranquility and peace that hit me as the view of the mountains entered my sight. I needed a moment to soak it all in, and yet Ethan understood exactly where I was coming from, possibly feeling the same thing as me. The city of Ollantaytambo is situated right in the midst of the Andean massifs, and that particular side under which his home is, is especially interesting.

Inca Temples near Cusco Part I (Tambomachay, Pukapukara, and Amaru Machay/Moon temple)

Amaru Machay, also knows as the Moon temple of the Incas

It was late February last year (2016) when I was exposed for the first time (properly) to the Incan and pre-Incan architecture in the area above Cusco. The night before immersion in the incredible ancient sites of the Incas (and pre-Incas), I had a very good sleep. The plan for the day was to visit four ancient sites that surround the city of Cusco, starting with Tambomachay, then Pukapukara, Amaru Machay (also known as the Moon temple), Qe’ngo, and finishing at Sacsayhuaman. As always, I wanted to visit these sites on my own, without taking a time restrictive tour. My Couchsurfing host Albert explained to me from where I can take the public bus to these sites. He mentioned that I should start with Tambomachay, the furthermost site from the Cusco, and then working my way back, visiting other three sites that are on the same road. I listened to his advice, and at around 9am I was already on the bus stop in the Recoleta street from where the bus goes to Tambomachay (1.5 soles). The bus soon left Cusco as it started going up the hill, and it passed by ancient sites, until eventually reaching the end of the bus route, which is at the site of Tambomachay. At the ticket booth I got a partial ticket that cost 70 soles, and with which I could enter the sites of Tambomachay, Pukapukara, Qe’ngo, and Sacsayhuaman.

Adventure in Peru continues in Paracas (from Lima)

Paracas National Reserve

I had a hard time falling asleep that night, as Jose and his guests were partying hard in the living room, the excuse for the party being me leaving the next day, and so the celebration “had” to be organized. Ironic thing is that I do not party and have left the room as soon as people started drinking. Beside loud noise coming from the living room, I was also awakened by the earthquake. This, I must admit, has left me disturbed. Up until that point I never thought about earthquakes in South America, yet as it was happening, even though it was short, on a subconscious level it was coming back what I knew about earthquakes in Peru. I went online to double check the information coming from the unknown part of my mind, and sure enough I was right. Peru has seen a lot of earthquakes due to being located in a seismic zone, and throughout certain parts of the country I have noticed a lot of signs signaling earthquake safety zones. Needless to say, I did not sleep well that night.