Visiting Guavirami/Guarani Community in Paraguay (from Encarnacion) Part 2

At the Guavirami community of Paraguay

One of the highlights of my trip in Paraguay, and the reason that attracted me there in the first place, was a visit to a Guarani community. The Guaranis are the indigenous people of Paraguay that inhabit these regions since the pre-Columbian era. As with many other tribal nations, they too were persecuted by the Western European conquistadors that were coming to South America in hope of finding gold, and to establish New Spain back in the 16^th century. The Guarani people are famous for their exquisite music, in the same way as the indigenous of the Andes are. The Andeans, in their music compositions, were affected by the high mountains and the strong element of air, whereas the Guaranis were inspired by their environment – the jungles and rivers. Their music exhibits something very special, a type of a high melody that can trigger some wonderful responses in a human body. Obviously they inherited this music knowledge from their ancestors, and I was very keen to find out more about it and their culture overall.

The community I was to visit is called the Guavirami community, located not far from the city of Encarnacion (for those of you who are interested to visit it, call Castorina at 0975 543946 and announce your coming). I took a bus that went along the ‘Ruta 6’, and right before the toll booth I went off and turned left, onto the path that went across the field, and was eager to walk the necessary 5 kilometers in order to arrive to my destination. Occasional villagers on motorcycles passed by me, so I tried and hitchhike, which worked very well – a friendly chap stopped by and dropped me off at the junction where I needed to turn right in order to reach the Guavirami community.

Walking on the field path towards the Guavirami community

Nature along the way.

Walking through those fields for the last couple of kilometers was very pleasant. Finally, I saw the settlements above on the hill in the distance. I was greeted there by Benito and his son Mariano, who were responsible for taking in visitors and showing them around. The price for that is/was 4 USD per person. Mariano spoke fluent Spanish and explained everything in a good way. There was much to see and learn, which made me think that I would need a longer time staying with them in order to find out more about their culture. Nevertheless, in that one afternoon I learned a great deal.

Mariano pointed out various aspects of their living, starting from architecture, which was basic and for which natural materials were used. The Guaranis of that community grow their own food, and even set up traps for wild animals that live in nearby forests. Mariano then showed me the temple, also made of natural materials. When I asked him more about their religion, he did not want to reveal too much, except that the ceremonies are happening during night. Then he took me to the forest, and up on a hill, where I had a chance to see the botanical aspect of their every day life, and the various plants that they used for healing different illnesses.

Mariano explaining about the animal traps

Basic natural materials are used for building of houses.

Agricultural work at the Guavirami community.

As we were climbing up towards the top, we were passing by strange stones that looked as if someone arranged them in such a way. Mariano pointed out to the carvings on some of them, the most impressive of which was a stone which looked like a head of a beast or snake. When I asked my guide about what these rocks are about, he said that they were here before his community arrived to this place.

The open gateway through which everyone passes when climbing up towards the sacred ground

The rocks on the way up to the sacred ground.

Carvings on the way up.

The entire rock to depict a head of a beast

We sat on top of that mount, deeply surrounded by the forest, and just enjoying the silence. That was a spiritual place, probably used for ceremonies for a long long time. Mariano told me about how both his father and his grandfather were priests, and told me some more things about their religion. On our way down I saw more places related to agriculture and irrigation of water, to ultimately arriving to their school where opportunity presented itself to talk to two young Paraguayan teachers who were coming there every day from Encarnacion. They told me how the government is helping the Guarani people financially and in other ways, as well as about some other components of their work.

This enchanting visit was brought to peak and concluded by  a performance of a choir of  Guarani boys and girls. I was told that this particular choir of the Guavirami community is one of the best one in Paraguay, and that they even performed in front of the Pope. It was a great performance, and I felt privileged for such a marvelous opportunity.

Singing performance of the Guavirami community of Paraguay.

Group shot before leaving this community.

Visiting the Guavirami community was an important part of my travel through Paraguay. It showed me a glimpse of the Guarani culture, and most importantly, they every day life and ancient heritage. People of the Guavirami community were very friendly and, although cautious due to bad experiences throughout history that they  had with invaders of all kind, they will share with you in the feeling of peace and joy. Highly recommended to anyone interested in anthropology, ancient cultures and ancient religions!

Dario Papić, July 2018.