A day at the majestic Mayan site of Calakmul

At the entrance of the Calakmul biosphere reserve.

The night was cold. It was still dark when I woke up and headed out towards the bus station. The plan was to go to the entrance of Calakmul biosphere reserve by bus, and then from there to catch a colectivo van to Calakmul, or hitchhike. So I took an early morning second class bus to Palenque, which picked up passengers in Xpujil at around 6am (this was the only option, because the first class bus does not stop at such places, and the next second class bus went at 1pm). I asked the driver to tell me when we will be there so I can get off. By the way, it’s always good to mention to drivers where to drop you off twice – once at the start and second time remind them when close by, because if you only tell them at the start they may forget about it (happened to me in Puebla).

I arrived to the entrance of the Calakmul bioreserve at 6:50 am. There is a ramp gates that are lifted when each visitor buys a ticket to biosphere reserve. So it’s mandatory to buy both the ticket to that and to the archeological site (each costs around 60 pesos). From the entrance of Calakmul biosphere reserve to Calakmul archeological site one needs to drive for some 60 kilometers. There was already a car there buying tickets to biosphere reserve when I came. Some of the workers there asked them if they can take me, but their car was full. A motorcyclist was buying tickets there as well, and he offered me a ride, but I didn’t feel secure driving 60 kilometes through the jungle roads without a hamlet. Colectivo van was there as well, but its driver was waiting for more people to gather. Good thing about getting to Calakmul archeological zone for travelers like me who use public transport, is that due to the ramp gates every vehicle must stop when purchasing tickets, so you can just walked up to them and asked if they can take you with them. I’ve seen that most travelers will take you, because they often recognize the drives and goals that travelers share.

It was 8am when the second car came and stopped in front of the ramp gates. I approached the vehicle and people inside knew what I wanted, so they’ve made a hand gesture indicating I can come in. It was a nice couple from Russia. They were exploring the sites in Yucatan and had a very open schedule (after Calakmul were considering of going to Palenque). They told me a lot about their homeland, and their recent trip to Peru. The latter they enjoyed very much, and were surprised how safe it is. They were also pleasantly surprised with Mexico and were enjoying it a lot. On our way we stopped in a museum for a cup of coffee, and then continued onwards. Finally we arrived at around 9am.

They invited me to explore the site with them, and then go back together to where they picked me up. I gladly accepted, and for the first half an hour I stayed with them, but then afterwards I went to explore it on my own. The way I go through ancient sites often time entails reading, writing, and sit down meditations, and most people just don’t have enough patience to stay with me, unless of course they share the same interest. In any case, as we entered in it took us a while to get to the first group of objects, as Calakmul is known for being a huge site (it takes five hours to thoroughly explore it). The first groups of objects are structures that are very common to all Mayan sites, but as we walked on I noticed a plaza with temples that have something particular and unique in front of them – many stelaes. Calakmul is distinguished not just by being a huge site, but also because of the big structures and the many stelaes. Some think these erected stones (stelaes) are related to tombs, others think that the inscriptions on them are like a history book for generations to come. It may also be related to some astronomical alignments or active purposes regarding various measurements in that field. At this point I separated from the people I was with and continued alone.

At one of the first groups of objects.

Steleas in front of the acropolis.

The monkeys.

After walking through a jungle path where some monkeys jumped high up on trees branches, I arrived to one of the two largest pyramids. These pyramids are definitely unique in the Mayan world, as each consists of several platforms. It was very hot, but decided to climb all the way up from where I had a great view of the ancient city of Calakmul and the jungle that stretches in all direction as far as the eyes can see. It was a profound experience being up there, and just admiring the great view. I was thinking how only 40 kilometers from here by the jungle path is Tikal – another majestic Mayan site, which I planned to visit the day after tomorrow. Now it was only a short distance away, yet the trouble I was to endure in order to reach it were immense. Some friends of mine managed to be at that very spot on the Calakmul pyramid during the sunset, just a few weeks before me, and have started seeing the stars. To see the stars at night from this place must be an amazing experience.

The second largest pyramid.

View from the top of the pyramid.

The largest pyramid. Note the steleas at and on it.

The largest pyramid shot from another angle.

As I climbed back down I talked to a person at the bottom who was waiting for his girlfriend. We talked about the findings of many artifacts that apparently prove/indicate how the civilization that lived here was in contact with extraterrestrial beings. These artifacts are unfortunately not displayed in the museum of Calakmul. I then went to see the largest pyramid. Admiring it from the bottom I was thinking whether to climb it, but I was worried that my good Samaritans will leave without me, so I went back to the entrance. I came some 10 minutes before them, and then together we went back to the entrance of the Calakmul’s biosphere reserve. They gave me their contact and said I must visit them in Moscow. They were very nice.

Lucky for me, almost as soon as they dropped me off, I was picked up by another very nice couple. They were a young couple from Switzerland, and have driven me all the way to Xpujil. I then went straight to the office of Ka’an Expeditions, where on previous day I was told all the useful information for visiting Calakmul (they are by the way specialized on doing organized tours to Calakmul). The lady who works there, named Edith, was very helpful and kind, and this time she helped out with how to get to Flores, Guatemala. I wasn’t sure if I should do Palenque and then from there go to Flores and back to Palenque, or if I should go through Belize. Both of us were looking at the map, and figured it may be better to take the Belize route. I was more open for this option because it would allow me to see one more country, and I would then do a loop rather than going back the same way.

Back in cabanas I asked my host to give me a new cabana, because the one I was in last night had mosquitos and a large cockroach. I was given a new room which was part of their house. However here too I had problems with pests – there were two yellow lizards speeding along the walls and ceiling. I managed to catch one and it was the first animal in my life that squeaked when I removed it from my room. Later on I was told that you just can’t avoid these creatures in the tropics. I found this to be true. In any case, at least I didn’t have problems with mosquitos.
All in all, it was a great day out. I’ve met some nice people, and have seen the site of Calakmul. It took quite some effort to get there, but it’s worth it. Tomorrow awaits me a whole day journey to Flores, Guatemala.

Dario Papic, November 2015.